Varenna, Lake Como: 17 Amazing Things to Do (+2026 Guide)
Varenna, Lake Como, ended up being the biggest surprise of my week-long trip around the lake. If you’re looking for the best things to do in Varenna, this guide covers everything I actually did, ate, and what I’d do differently next time.
If you’d asked me on day one which village I’d end up recommending most, I probably wouldn’t have said Varenna. It’s less famous than Bellagio, smaller and quieter than Como town, yet by the end of the week, it was the place I kept finding excuses to return to.
If you’re still planning your wider itinerary, start with my full Lake Como travel guide. It’s not another generic list of attractions—just an honest take on what’s genuinely worth your time, what I’d skip, and what I’m already planning to do differently on my next visit.
Quick Answer: Is Varenna Worth Visiting?
Yes. Varenna is one of the most beautiful and relatively peaceful villages on the lake, easily reached by direct train from Milan or by ferry from Bellagio and Menaggio. If you only have one stop on Lake Como, Varenna gives you the classic postcard views without the crush of tour groups you’ll find elsewhere.
At a glance:
- Best for: Couples, photographers, first-time Lake Como visitors, anyone who wants charm without the crowds
- How long to stay: 1–3 nights (a day trip works, but you’ll wish you’d stayed longer)
- Getting there: ~1 hour by train from Milan; ferries from Bellagio, Menaggio, and Como
- Best months: April–May and late September–October
Why Varenna Won Me Over
Compared to busier towns like Bellagio and Como, Varenna offers the perfect balance of lakeside charm, historic villas, excellent restaurants, and convenient ferry connections—all within a compact village that’s easy to explore on foot. Whether you’re visiting for a day or staying a few nights, it’s one of the best bases for discovering central Lake Como.
If you’re debating whether to stay in Varenna or Bellagio, I’d choose Varenna every time. Bellagio is absolutely worth visiting, but after spending time in both, I found Varenna quieter, more walkable, and far more relaxing at the end of a busy day. With frequent ferries linking the two, you can easily experience Bellagio without having to stay in the busiest part of the lake.
After a full week exploring Lake Como, Varenna is the place I want to come back to. Unlike Bellagio or Como town, it still feels like a genuine lakeside village rather than somewhere shaped around day-trippers. Pastel-colored houses tumble down the hillside towards a quiet harbor, narrow lanes wind between centuries-old buildings, and once the last ferry leaves, the crowds disappear, leaving behind a peaceful atmosphere that’s increasingly hard to find around the lake.
Despite its relaxed feel, Varenna is also one of the best-connected towns on Lake Como. Regular ferries make it easy to explore Bellagio, Menaggio, and the rest of the central lake, making it an ideal base if you want to see more than one village without constantly changing hotels.
My Perfect 2-Day Varenna Itinerary
After spending a week exploring Lake Como, I think two nights is the sweet spot for Varenna. A day trip lets you see the highlights, but staying overnight means you get to experience the village after the crowds disappear and enjoy the slower pace that makes Varenna so special. This is how I’d plan my time on a return visit:
Day 1: Explore Varenna’s Gardens, Waterfront & Local Flavors
Morning: Villa Monastero
Start early at Villa Monastero before the day-trippers arrive. The botanical gardens are one of Varenna’s highlights, and visiting in the morning means you’ll have the lake views, terraces, and walking paths mostly to yourself.
If you want to understand more about Varenna’s history and hidden details, this is also a great time to join a small-group walking and food tour. I almost skipped mine, but it ended up being one of the experiences that helped me appreciate the village beyond the obvious sights.
Lunch: Riva Grande
After exploring the gardens, head down to Riva Grande for lunch by the water. This is the heart of Varenna, where fishing boats, ferries, cafés, and restaurants all meet. It’s the perfect place to slow down, enjoy a lake view, and watch daily life unfold.
Afternoon: Villa Cipressi & Gates of Heaven
Spend the afternoon exploring Villa Cipressi’s terraced gardens and the famous Gates of Heaven photo spot next door. The gardens are smaller than Villa Monastero but offer some of the best views in the village.
Sunset: Passeggiata degli Innamorati
End the day with a walk along the Lovers’ Walk. This short lakeside path is at its best in the evening when the light hits the mountains, the water turns golden, and the crowds begin to disappear.
Day 2: Explore Beyond Varenna
Morning: Ferry to Bellagio
Take the short ferry across to Bellagio and spend a few hours wandering its cobblestone lanes, boutique shops, and lakeside viewpoints before the busiest part of the day arrives.
For a completely different perspective of the lake, consider swapping a regular ferry ride for a private boat tour from Varenna. Seeing Varenna’s colorful waterfront, Villa Monastero, Bellagio, and the famous villas from the water is one of the most memorable ways to experience Lake Como.
Afternoon: Swim at Olivedo Lido (or explore the hills above Varenna)
Return to Varenna for a swim at Olivedo Lido. It’s a simple lakeside spot, but the clear water, mountain views, and relaxed atmosphere make it one of my favorite ways to spend an afternoon.
If you prefer a more active experience, this is also the time I’d finally make it up to Vezio Castle—a stop I missed on my first trip but already have planned for my return.
Evening: Aperitivo at Il Molo
Finish your trip with sunset drinks at Il Molo Bar. Sitting by the water with an Aperol Spritz while the mountains change color is exactly the kind of slow travel moment that makes Varenna unforgettable.
If you have an extra evening, I’d also save it for a pasta and tiramisu cooking class in a local’s home. It’s the kind of experience that goes beyond sightseeing and gives you a glimpse of everyday Italian life—sharing a meal, learning traditional recipes, and connecting with locals in a way you simply don’t get at a restaurant.
17 Best Things to Do in Varenna, Lake Como
Here’s everything I did — the best things to do in Varenna, in the order I’d actually recommend tackling them.
1. Villa Monastero Gardens and Museum
Villa Monastero was one of the places I was most excited to visit in Varenna, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. A former 12th-century Cistercian convent turned aristocratic villa, its botanical garden stretches nearly two kilometers along the lakefront, lined with palms, citrus trees, agaves, and centuries-old cypresses, with the Grigne mountains rising across the water. Inside, the House Museum takes you through 14 richly furnished rooms showcasing roughly four centuries of design history. Physicist Enrico Fermi even held his famous international physics school here in the 1950s.
If you’re only planning to visit one historic villa on Lake Como, I’d choose Villa Monastero over Villa Carlotta, for instance. While Villa Carlotta has larger formal gardens and an impressive art collection, I found Villa Monastero’s lakeside setting far more memorable. Walking through nearly two kilometers of gardens right along the water made the experience feel much more immersive, and the views were hard to beat.
My tip: Go first thing in the morning. I arrived right at opening and had entire stretches of the garden to myself before the tour groups showed up.
Opening hours shift seasonally — expect roughly 9:30 am–7:30/8 pm in summer and shorter hours (around 10 am–5 pm) off-season, with the House Museum closed one or two weekdays outside peak months. Check the official Villa Monastero website before you go, since hours and ticket prices are updated regularly.
2. Villa Cipressi Gardens
Right next door, Villa Cipressi is a smaller but equally lovely terraced garden dating to the 15th century, named for the towering cypress trees that frame the property. The terraces cascade straight down to the water, and this is genuinely one of the best photo spots in Varenna — I lost a good twenty minutes just standing on one terrace watching the light change. The villa itself partly operates as a hotel now, so you can pair the garden with a coffee or lunch on the lakeside terrace. Most visitors (myself included) buy the combined ticket (€25) that covers both Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi in one visit.
If you’re deciding between the two gardens, don’t skip Villa Monastero in favor of Villa Cipressi. Villa Cipressi is beautiful, especially for photography, but Villa Monastero offers the more complete experience with its larger botanical gardens, historic interiors, and longer lakeside walk. If your budget allows, the combined ticket is absolutely worth it.
3. Gates of Heaven (Porta del Paradiso)
These iron gates in the botanical gardens of Villa Cipressi in Varenna make one of the most photographed spots on the entire lake, and for good reason — frame the lake through the gates, and you’ve got the classic Varenna shot. The gates are within Villa Cipressi gardens. Expect queues of people waiting to take photos if visiting Varenna during high season.
4. Passeggiata degli Innamorati (Lovers’ Walk)
The “Lovers’ Walk” is a narrow path built directly into the rock face along the water’s edge, connecting the ferry terminal to Varenna’s center. Built in the early 20th century, it’s one of the most atmospheric walks on Lake Como — waves just below your feet, colorful houses above, and constantly shifting views across the water. I did this twice: once at midday and once at golden hour, and the evening version is not even close. If you only have time for one walk, do it then.
5. Riva Grande
Riva Grande is Varenna’s main harbor and, really, the heart of village life. It’s where the ferries dock, where fishing boats bob alongside the promenade, and where most of the restaurants and gelaterias cluster. I ended here several times — grabbing an aperitivo at a waterside table and watching the light shift on the mountains is one of the simplest, and best, things to do in Varenna.
6. Enjoy Sunest Aperitivo at Il Molo Bar
Right on Riva Grande, Il Molo Bar (you’ll also see it called “Il Moro Bar” by visitors) is one of the most photographed spots in the village — a lakeside bistro with three outdoor terraces, white bistro tables, and flower-lined railings that spill almost onto the water. I stopped here for a sunset Aperol Spritz, and it delivered exactly what I wanted from the view. It’s popular, so expect a wait at peak lunch and sunset hours, and know you’re paying a premium for the setting — worth it once, in my opinion.
7. Varenna Beach – Olivedo Lido
Varenna has a few tiny swimming spots for a quick jump into the lake. However, for a proper swim or a lazy afternoon, head to Olivedo Lido, Varenna’s lake beach club near the ferry landing on the north side of the village. It’s a modest, pebbly beach with a bar and a restaurant rather than a resort-style lido. But the water is clean, and the mountain views are dramatic. It is a perfect place for a “do nothing” afternoon in Varenna!
8. Piazza San Giorgio & Church of San Giorgio
Piazza San Giorgio, the town’s main square, sits just above the harbor, framed by stone buildings, a bell tower, and the medieval Church of San Giorgio. It’s a peaceful spot to sit with a coffee or gelato and just watch daily life happen — this is also the starting point for several of the walks and tours in this Varenna guide.
Overlooking the piazza, the 14th-century Church of San Giorgio is one of Varenna’s oldest and most important landmarks, with its stone facade and bell tower forming part of the village’s signature silhouette as you approach by ferry. Step inside for the frescoes, black marble floor, and a quiet moment away from the sunny lakefront.
9. Church of San Giovanni Battista
Tucked into a corner of Piazza San Giorgio, easy to walk right past if you’re not looking for it, is Varenna’s oldest church — and honestly, one of my favorite discoveries of the week. San Giovanni Battista dates back to the 11th century, making it the oldest church on this stretch of the lake, with a plain, undecorated stone exterior that gives no hint of what’s inside: faded but still striking 14th-century frescoes on the side walls and a Romanesque bell tower built, as was the custom then, facing the lake. It’s small enough to see in fifteen minutes, and it isn’t always open, so if you find the door unlocked as you pass, step in.
10. Walking and Food Tour
If you like walking and food tours, do it in Varenna. I almost skipped this tour because I assumed I’d learn enough simply wandering around Varenna on my own. I’m really glad I didn’t. Within the first half hour, my guide was pointing out tiny details and telling stories I’d walked straight past without noticing.
Because the group was small, it felt more like exploring with a knowledgeable local than following a scripted tour. We wandered through quiet lanes, along the waterfront, and into corners I probably wouldn’t have discovered on my own, stopping to sample local cheeses, cured meats, fresh bread, and wines from nearby Valtellina. By the end, I wasn’t just admiring Varenna—I understood the history and traditions that make it so special.
👉 Walking and Food Tour of Varenna, Lake Como (Viator)
11. Private Boat Tour on Lake Como
To really see Varenna and Lake Como the way it’s meant to be seen — from the water — book a private boat tour. A one-hour private cruise from Riva Grande gives you a completely different perspective of Lake Como, taking you past some of Lake Como’s most famous villas and villages without the crowds. From the boat, you’ll glide past Varenna’s colorful waterfront, Villa Monastero, Villa del Balbianello, Villa Carlotta, Villa Melzi, and the iconic shoreline around Bellagio, while your captain shares stories about the region’s history, architecture, and celebrity villas.
If you’re wondering whether to take the ferry or book a private boat, I’d do both. The ferry is the most practical way to get between villages, but a private boat lets you appreciate the villas, dramatic shoreline, and mountain scenery from angles you simply can’t experience from land. Seeing Varenna’s pastel houses, dramatic mountains, and lakeside villas from the water will make you appreciate just how special this corner of Lake Como really is.
👉 Private Boat Tour from Varenna, 1 Hour on Lake Como (Viator)
12. Dine at a Lakefront Restaurant
Varenna, Lake Como, restaurants range from casual lakeside cafés to romantic fine-dining spots overlooking the water.
- For a proper sit-down dinner, Ristorante La Vista at the Albergo Milano is consistently one of the most recommended spots — a small, romantic deck right over the water, with a menu built around lake fish and regional dishes. It’s popular enough that reservations are essential, so book ahead.
- If you’d rather eat in the historic center, Il Cavatappi is a local favorite tucked on a small lane, known for homemade pasta and a well-chosen wine list.
- For something more casual, Varenna Caffè Bistrot sits right on the water along Riva Grande and works well for breakfast, an all-day aperitivo, or a relaxed dinner without needing a formal reservation — it’s popular precisely because of that sunset view, so expect a short wait at peak times. Either way — book ahead where you can. Good lakefront tables disappear fast in high season.
13. Pasta & Tiramisu Cooking Class at a Local’s Home
I love taking cooking classes when I travel because they’re one of the easiest ways to connect with a place beyond the sightseeing. Instead of eating in another restaurant, I spent one evening in a local home learning how to make fresh pasta by hand before sitting down to share everything we’d cooked over wine. It felt less like a tourist activity and more like being invited into someone’s kitchen.
This small-group cooking class, usually limited to just a handful of guests, is hosted through Cesarine, Italy’s network of home cooks. Over around three hours, you’ll start with a traditional Italian aperitivo of prosecco and local snacks before getting hands-on with fresh pasta. You’ll learn how to roll sfoglia (fresh pasta dough) by hand, make two classic pasta shapes, and finish by preparing an authentic tiramisu from scratch.
👉 Varenna Small-Group Pasta and Tiramisu Class
14. Picnic Experience in the Foothills of the Alps
If you want to get above Varenna rather than just around it, this one’s worth building a half-day around. It’s a small-group excursion — a short drive up into the hills, a gentle walk, and then a beautifully laid-out picnic of local meats, cheeses, wine, and fresh produce, all with Lake Como spread out below you and the Alps rising behind.
I didn’t have time to fit this into my itinerary, but it’s already at the top of my list for my next trip. After spending a week around Lake Como, I realized that some of my favorite moments weren’t ticking off famous sights—they were slowing down and enjoying the scenery. A picnic overlooking the lake feels like exactly the kind of experience I’d build an afternoon around next time
👉 Lake Como & the Alps: The Best Picnic Experience
15. Vezio Castle
Full honesty: I ran out of time and missed this one. Castello di Vezio is the medieval castle on the hillside above Varenna, with sweeping views over the village and lake, and it comes up constantly in other travelers’ “must-do” lists. It’s a short, steep uphill walk (or quick drive) from the center. If I go back — and I plan to — this is the first thing on my list. If you’d rather have it guided, this hiking tour pairs the castle with Villa Monastero and the Fiumelatte waterfall and comes highly reviewed:
👉 Hiking Tour: Varenna, Castle of Vezio, Villa Monastero, Fiumelatte
16. Day Trip to Bellagio
Known as the “Pearl of Lake Como,” Bellagio is just a 15-minute ferry ride from Varenna, making it one of the easiest and most worthwhile day trips on the lake. Spend a few hours wandering its steep cobblestone lanes, browsing the boutiques, and taking in the views from the point where Lake Como’s three branches meet.
I definitely think Bellagio is worth visiting—but I wouldn’t stay there. After spending time in both villages and even returning to Bellagio several times to see it from different angles, I’d still choose Varenna as my base. You can enjoy Bellagio’s beautiful streets during the day, then return to Varenna’s much quieter, more relaxed atmosphere in the evening.
Before heading to the ferry terminal, it’s worth checking the official schedules, as departure times vary by season. And if you’re planning to spend more time in Bellagio, my dedicated Bellagio Lake Como guide covers the best things to do, where to eat, and what not to miss.
17. Day Trip to Menaggio
Menaggio, on the western shore of Lake Como, feels noticeably more relaxed than Bellagio. With its lakeside promenade, cafés, and hiking trails in the hills above town, it’s an easy place to slow down and spend a few unhurried hours.
If you’re deciding on a second day trip after Bellagio, I’d choose Menaggio. It offers a quieter atmosphere, fewer crowds, and a lovely waterfront that feels very different from Bellagio’s busy lanes. The ferry from Varenna takes only around 15 minutes, making it one of the easiest ways to see another side of the lake without the same level of tourist traffic.
As with any ferry trip on Lake Como, it’s worth checking the latest ferry schedules before you go, since routes and departure times can change with the season.
Where to Stay in Varenna: Best Hotels & Areas
If you’re deciding between staying in Varenna or Bellagio, I’d choose Varenna every time. While Bellagio is beautiful, it’s also the busiest village on the lake. Varenna offers a quieter atmosphere, excellent ferry connections, and makes an ideal base for exploring Bellagio, Menaggio, and the rest of central Lake Como.
That’s what I love about staying here—you can spend the day exploring by ferry, then return each evening to peaceful streets and a village that feels wonderfully calm once the crowds have gone.
Accommodation ranges from elegant lakefront hotels to affordable family-run guesthouses, with options to suit most budgets.
Lakefront boutique hotels are the classic choice if you want to wake up to uninterrupted lake views and be within a few minutes’ walk of the ferry terminal and restaurants. Hotel Olivedo, a beautiful 19th-century property beside the ferry dock, and Albergo Milano, known for its terrace overlooking the water, are two of the village’s most popular stays. If you’re visiting between late spring and early autumn, it’s worth booking as early as possible, as these rooms sell out months in advance.
Hotel Villa Cipressi offers one of the most unique places to stay in Varenna. Set within the famous terraced gardens, it gives you the rare chance to experience the villa after the day visitors have gone, with panoramic views over Lake Como right outside your room.
If you’re travelling on more of a budget, family-run guesthouses just above the waterfront offer excellent value. The walk into the village is steep in places, but you’ll usually pay significantly less while still being only a few minutes from the lake. Albergo Del Sole, overlooking Piazza San Giorgio, and Chiave di Volta are both reliable, well-reviewed options.
Whichever hotel you choose, book as far ahead as you can if you’re visiting in summer. Varenna is one of the most sought-after places to stay on Lake Como, and the best lake-view rooms are often fully booked several months in advance.
Best Time to Visit Varenna
- April–May and late September–October: Mild weather, blooming gardens, noticeably thinner crowds — this is when I’d go back, and arguably the best time to enjoy Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi.
- June–August: Peak season, longest opening hours, warmest water for a swim at Olivedo Lido — but also the busiest ferries and highest hotel prices.
- November–March: Quiet and atmospheric, though some villas and gardens run on reduced hours or close for part of the winter.
I visited Lake Como in June, and while it was a fantastic time to go, if I had to choose just one month to return, it would be late September. The gardens are still beautiful, the lake is warm enough for a swim, and the crowds are noticeably smaller than in the peak summer months of July and August. In fact, I’m already looking to return in September.
How to Get to Varenna
Varenna is one of the easiest towns on Lake Como to reach without a car, and this is exactly how to get around there:
- By train: Direct trains run from Milano Centrale to the Varenna-Esino station on the Milan–Sondrio/Tirano line — the most accessible route onto the lake.
- By ferry: The Varenna Lake Como ferry network is one of the easiest ways to explore the lake, with frequent crossings to Bellagio, Menaggio, Como, and Lecco — a scenic, traffic-free way to explore, and the easiest way to reach both day trips above.
- By car: From Milan, take the SS36 toward Lecco, then follow signs for Varenna. Parking in the center is limited, so use the garage near the entrance to Villa Monastero. Check rental cars online here.
Frequently Asked Questions About Varenna
Is Varenna worth visiting on Lake Como?
Yes — after a full week on the lake, Varenna was the village I most wanted to return to. It’s quieter and less crowded than Bellagio or Como town, with easy train and ferry access, beautiful gardens, and classic lakeside architecture.
How many days do you need in Varenna?
A day trip covers the highlights, but I’d recommend one to three nights so you get the village in the early morning and evening, when it’s quietest, and have time for day trips to Bellagio or Menaggio.
What is Varenna Lake Como known for?
Varenna is known for the lakeside gardens at Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi, the Gates of Heaven photo spot, the cliffside Passeggiata degli Innamorati, and its colorful, car-free harbor at Riva Grande.
Is Varenna better than Bellagio?
Both are beautiful, but in my experience Varenna is quieter and less expensive than Bellagio, while still offering equally stunning views and easy ferry access to Bellagio itself — I’d base myself in Varenna and day-trip to Bellagio, not the other way around.
Can you visit Bellagio and Menaggio from Varenna?
Yes — both are easily reached by ferry from Varenna in about 15 minutes each, which is exactly how I visited them during my week-long trip.
What’s the best way to get around Lake Como from Varenna?
The ferry network is the easiest option — no driving, no parking headaches, and better views than the road offers. I used ferries every day during my Lake Como trip.
Do you need a car to visit Varenna?
No. Varenna is reachable by direct train from Milan and connected to the rest of the lake by ferry, so a car isn’t necessary unless you’re planning to explore further-flung towns off the main ferry routes.
Is Varenna walkable?
Absolutely. One of the things I loved most about Varenna was that I barely needed to think about transportation. The village is compact enough to explore entirely on foot, with most attractions, restaurants, and the ferry terminal all within a 10- to 15-minute walk of each other. Just be prepared for steep stone streets and plenty of steps, so comfortable shoes are a must. If you’re staying near the train station, it’s about a 10-minute downhill walk into the historic center.
Is one day enough for Varenna?
Yes, but I think one night is even better. A day trip gives you enough time to visit Villa Monastero, stroll the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, enjoy lunch by the lake, and wander the historic streets. However, staying overnight lets you experience Varenna after the last ferries leave, when the crowds disappear, and the village becomes wonderfully peaceful. If I were planning another trip, I’d spend at least two nights here and use Varenna as my base for exploring the rest of Lake Como.
Which is better, Varenna or Menaggio?
After visiting both, I’d choose Varenna if it’s your first trip to Lake Como. Varenna has more iconic sights, including Villa Monastero, Villa Cipressi, and the romantic lakeside promenade, while also offering easier access to Bellagio by ferry. Menaggio has a quieter, more residential feel with a lovely waterfront and fewer crowds, making it a great second stop if you have extra time. Ideally, stay in Varenna and take the 15-minute ferry across to Menaggio for a relaxed half-day trip.
Can you swim in Lake Como in Varenna?
Yes! Varenna is one of the best places to swim on Lake Como. I spent a relaxing afternoon at Olivedo Lido, a small pebbly beach club near the ferry terminal with clear water, dramatic mountain views, and a bar and restaurant nearby. During summer, the lake is warm enough for a refreshing swim, especially from June through September. Just remember that this is a natural lake rather than a sandy beach, so bringing water shoes is a good idea.
Is Varenna expensive?
Varenna isn’t cheap, but I found it slightly more affordable than Bellagio. Hotels with lake views command premium prices during summer, and waterfront restaurants are understandably expensive. That said, there are also family-run guesthouses, cafés, and casual trattorias that offer much better value. I found that staying in Varenna gave me the best balance of atmosphere, convenience, and cost, especially since I could easily reach Bellagio and Menaggio by ferry without paying Bellagio’s accommodation prices.
What I’d Prioritize on a Return Trip to Varenna
I’d stay in Varenna without even considering another base. I’d revisit Villa Monastero first thing in the morning, finally hike up to Vezio Castle, book the picnic experience I’d missed, and spend another evening at Il Molo watching the sun disappear behind the mountains. That’s probably the biggest compliment I can give Varenna—I left with a list of things I still wanted to do.
Final Thoughts: Why Varenna Became My Favorite Stop on Lake Como
Of all the places I visited on my week-long trip to Lake Como, Varenna is the one place I’m already planning to go back to — if only to finally make it up to Vezio Castle and finally book that picnic in the hills. Between the gardens of Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi, the cliffside romance of the Passeggiata degli Innamorati and the Gates of Heaven, a swim at Olivedo Lido, and a sunset drink at Il Molo Bar, Varenna gave me more genuinely memorable moments per square mile than anywhere else on the lake.
If you’re deciding where to base yourself for a Lake Como trip, or just wondering whether Varenna, Lake Como deserves a spot on your itinerary — it does. Book hotels and dinner reservations ahead, and go in the shoulder season if your dates are flexible.
